I had dinner with Yangarra winemaker Pete Fraser a month or so ago. You couldn’t hope to meet a more down to earth, forthright and candid bloke. We might not have agreed about every issue that was discussed that evening but the free flow of conversation was good for the soul. He’s got a clear vision for the type of wines he wants to make at Yangarra and after tasting this last night and a number of his other wines on a visit to McLaren Vale earlier in the year, I’m convinced he’s onto something special in the foothills of the Blewitt Springs subregion.
Grapes were hand harvested with selective picking and mechanical sorting tables employed to counter the rainy vintage. Roussanne is a pain in the arse in these sort of conditions. It’s tight, late-ripening bunches are prone to mildew and rot. Honest as always, Peter explains that there is a small amount of botrytis in this wine but believes it “adds some extra dimensions to the aromatic and flavour profile”. I’d concur.
The texture, palate weight and depth present in this wine at just 12.0% ABV really is quite remarkable. It smells as much of exotic tea houses, fromageries and wild flowers as it does fruit. Faint echoes of green pear and apricot nectar chime in along with an intriguing note of roast poultry. Honey and ginger are woven into the mix. It’s fluid and integrated on the palate, presenting as a whole that resists dissection. Viscous and savoury yet mellifluous. It’s a wild beast – not one for the technocrats – but I found it fascinating and delicious. 93 Very Good
Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 12.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: November 2012
Great wine. Better than the 2010 too, IMO
Yep, really enjoyed it. Was tempted to go a point higher, but I think the note is pretty clear in my admiration. Points are…well, just points.
I only tasted the 2010 briefly – too briefly to make a comparison, but interesting to hear that you thought the 2011 was better all the same. I’m just amazed they got this level of quality given the grape and the weather.