With McLaren Vale beginning to explore ‘alternative’ white grape varieties that are more suited to its warmer weather it’s germane to note that this wine is mostly sourced from near 80 year-old vines. Whoever planted these was way ahead of the learning curve. Chenin works well in the region. Maintains refreshing natural acidity. It can age well too. I haven’t tried an older Dowie Doole version but I suspect it could perform as well as the 2002 Coriole Chenin that I tasted earlier this year – it had gathered some extra textural complexity without losing vibrancy or structure. Impressive.
As a young wine this is unfettered, pure and zippy. It smells delightfully of flowering orchards, green apples and guava. There’s a firm focus on delicate fruit with a line of citrus and minerals running right down the centre. Not short of flavour but light and crisp all the same with a chalky, dry finish. The mid-palate offers a sherbet-like burst but there’s only 4.4g/l residual sugar here. A top option for Spring or Summer this year and I wouldn’t mind popping a couple in the cellar for 8-10 years either. Pleasant surprises may await. 88 Good
Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $16
Tasted: September 2012