Over two years ago I wrote the following words - “I strongly suspect that Marco [Cirillo] is only getting better at this Old Vine Grenache business.” Well, the 2008 release goes a long way towards proving that statement. From a warm year comes a ripe, rich wine. The fruit has a liquered quality but it does not come across as lifeless or flat. Marco always releases his Old Vine (160+ years old vines, oldest in the world) Grenaches with a bit of age but they still need more time than that to truly reveal their worth. Sometimes, even at four years of age, the acidity around which the flavours are structured can seem nervy. There’s no such issue here, although the architecture and fine-grained tannin assures a long life ahead. I’m tasting it now after four days of being open and it’s still in great shape.
Essence of cherries and raspberries dominate the nose and palate. Enormous depth of fruit. But there are savoury nuances to balance that sweetness and toffee. What’s more, they become increasingly apparent with time. Red earth, bitumen, almond biscotti, mint and a dash of white pepper. It feels velvety in the mouth and there is no brandied alcohol warmth breaking the line. The best Cirillo Old Vine Grenache yet and it will probably stay that way until the 2009 hits the market. 95 Excellent – Exceptional
Region: Barossa Valley
Alcohol: 14.7%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $50
Tasted: September 2012