If you’re looking at regions that can do it all, the Adelaide Hills is often given front running. I have to suggest that its title is being firmly challenged by the Yarra these days. Great Pinot and Chardonnay, overlooked Shiraz/Syrah, quality Riesling and aromatics, Cabernet et al and a whole bunch of lesser known varieties are being produced with aplomb. But before I am accused of bias (heaven help me if I have a personal attraction to a particular GI) I’d best get down to the wine at hand.
A lot of Yarra Shiraz is somewhat challenging, and I don’t mean that in a bad way. Mostly I’m talking about the use of whole bunch techniques but they fall under the broader banner of a focus on structure, aromatics and flavour that is not just primary fruit driven. This J-Block is a friendlier wine in many ways. It contains 2% Roussanne and I think that plays a role in its headily perfumed nature and slinky yet effulgent texture. Cool climate pepper and other assorted spices waft from the glass, alongside red fruits and black cherry. The tannins are delicate – admirably so – and share the structural workload with some fine acidity. It’s medium bodied but maintains a sense of ripeness and generosity. There’s little not to like about the wine full-stop. Very Good – Excellent
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $35
Tasted: August 2012