So, it’s pretty clear that winemaker David Bicknell is intent upon exploring single sites. The 864 Pinot is sourced from one vineyard as well, although I’d argue that there’s a fair bit of overt ‘interpretation’ going on here. Whether or not ‘interpretation’ is tantamount to ‘intervention’, I’ll let you decide.
Before we hit descriptors I’d like to get to the heart of the matter; whole bunch techniques. Stems are not grapes but I would argue that their inclusion in a ferment can elucidate certain characteristics of a vineyard in a clearer fashion. Of course, there is always the possiblity that they will obfuscate the expression of terroir as well.
This is a wine which sits at the fissure created by whole bunch techniques. They impart a stalky/peppery character to the wine that results in the focus being slightly removed from primary fruit expression. There’s fresh, vital red fruit here but the wine is more savoury than fruity, with a meaty edge. It’s a spicy bugger for sure and there’s some distinctly herbal notes. A fair emphasis on tannin structure as well.
As a young wine it presents itself in terms of conflict yet that very trait may lead to a truly satisfying result when it reaches maturity. There’s no questioning the quality of the fruit but I did find it quite challenging. I’m not rating this one. It just seemed a touch taciturn. Lots of interest mind you, but for me the jury’s out.
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $60
Tasted: August 2011