2010 De Bortoli Melba Mimi

Yarra Valley 12.5% Screwcap $30

As regular readers would know, I’m rather fond of Yarra Valley Cabernet when executed well. It combines elements of classicism with an easy drinking quality and a comfortable, though regal, sort of elegance. The addition of 9% Nebbiolo in particular, and 6% Syrah/Shiraz seem to have brought this into even greater relief here.

Before we hit the descriptors, let’s focus on what is arguably of more importance – it’s highly textural, flawlessly structured, immaculately balanced and gracefully medium bodied. Which is to say, it feels great in the mouth, slides down without effort yet after swallowing you are still left with a great deal to ponder.

Cherries, blackberries, brown leaf, meat jus and tar with flickers of other red fruits and fleeting floral highlights. Roasted nuts and dark chocolate. Not too much oak on the nose or palate. The acidity is pitched to perfection and segues into long, fine strands of tannin which serve to stretch out the finish. Anise and sage add further complexity while almond skins linger in the mouth with the remnants of the fruit.

It should cellar magnificently, but the balance is such that it is already a joy to drink even in its infancy.

I’ve used a lot of glowing adjectives in this note…because I fell in love with the wine and also, perhaps, because I don’t use numerical evaluation – there is still critical capacity, an appraisal of value, in worded reviews…or there should be. Profondo Rosso indeed.

Winery website- www.debortoli.com.au/