2010 Curly Flat Pinot Gris

Macedon 13.6% Screwcap $26

Curly Flat make one of the best Pinot Gris/Grigios in Australia; never fat, never oily but always varietal and generally capable of building in the bottle over the short to mid-term. The natural acidity that Macedon produces, being the coolest region of mainland Australia, no doubt plays a major part - as does fastidious vineyard management and sensitive winemaking.

2010 was a warmer vintage, producing the most forward Gris/Grigio I’ve seen from the winery. Still, it’s a controlled richness with mouth filling flavour not robbing the wine of sophistication – elegantly sumptuous is probably the best way to phrase it.

It smells of nashi pears, lychees and pink lady apples with hints of musk, wheat kernel and some floral notes. There is lemon citrus on a soft but shapely palate, plenty of spice on an enduring finish and some intriguing almond skin tannin tweaking things most pleasurably on exit.

On the largely useless question of whether this is Gris or Grigio? I’ve always classified Curly Flat’s version as a “slow to flesh out” Gris (although it has been labeled Grigio in the past). As mentioned, the palate will gain weight and intensity with time in the bottle, but the luxe characters already present make a strong argument for it bearing the French moniker. It may be a slightly different version of the style but its execution is near flawless. It may in fact redefine how the grape is best handled if one is looking for generosity of flavour whilst maintaining liveliness and form.

Winery website- www.curlyflat.com/