16.0% Screwcap $28 Source: Sample
Ok, let’s deal with the the obvious issues straight up. 16.0%. High ABV huh? I asked Troy Kalleske about this last week after a glass of his 2007 Old Vine Grenache had threatened to surpass the 06 Cirillo OV as my fave version of the grape in the Barossa. Both of these are 15.5%. The Cirillo, like this 09 Smallfry, displays a little warmth on the finish. Nothing too distracting, but if you personally can’t stand that in a red wine then be warned. The Kalleske showed nada. No warmth, no thinning, just pure balance and poise.
Troy was of the opinion that you did need to pick Grenache a little later to get the flavours right. Makes sense to me as I’ve tasted some watery rubbish made from the variety. He also thinks that his 07 OV Grenache will get better with age. I’d agree. So there, that’s my stance on it and there’s a more informed opinion by someone with far greater knowledge than me.
The flavour in this Smallfry is good. It smells of raspberries, damp earth, choc/cherry aromas and spice. In short it smells of genuine depth, not light confectionery. The entry is plenty bright with crunchy acidity and cola like elements before earthy notes temper things. Gradually the palate moves towards orange rind, char and a fair whack of both warm and sweet spice. Smudgy tannins dry things up and the length is also good.
The interplay of sweet and savoury characters generates some real fascination, and having seen this sort of thing before in Smallfry reds, it makes me wonder what Ahrens would be like as chef.
This still lacks a little of the depth and complexity of the Cirillo & the Kalleske, but it’s half the price. The back label mentions that “Old vine Grenache is one of the yet untapped resources of the Barossa Valley”. I concur. 80 cases made.
Winery Website- https://www.smallfrywines.com.au/