Finally widely available on Queensland retail shelves is the best vintage to date of the Grandfather of Australian Viognier. I can’t call it The King as I think Clonakilla have stolen that title when it comes to Viognier in this country, but it’s still mightily impressive.
No mistaking the grape here. Apricots abound in every way; skin, flesh and kernel and some dried ones for extra effect. Along with ginger, spice and musk and a slightly slippery mouth feel you’ve got the Platonic Form of Viognier captured in a bottle. Thankfully though it’s in no way that simple.
The primary reason that the 2008 outguns previous efforts is that they’ve sculpted the opulent profile into a more refined articulation of the variety. The glycerol is balanced by well judged acidity and savoury veins of flavour run through the fruit richness. Add to this some notes of funk derived from wild yeast and you’re onto a winner.
Honeysuckle and orange blossom play their part too, as do almonds and a general nuttiness which leads into a finish of great persistence.
I’m not so sure this is the way forward for Oz Viognier in general, but it’s a style which Yalumba have managed to master. More power to them.
Winery Website- http://www.yalumba.com/