Christmas Wines Part 1

My brother and his fiancée have journeyed north to share Christmas here at my place, so I’ve enlisted his help in jotting down some thoughts on wines we have been drinking since his arrival on Thursday. They’re a joint effort as much about impressions as concrete explorations, as befits the occasion.

2001 HEGGIES RESERVE RIESLING (Eden Valley 12.5% Screwcap)

Vibrant gold that maintains the merest hint of a green tinge this is drinking wonderfully right now with at least a couple more years up its sleeve depending on your tastes. The toasty aged characters are there, the lime has softened and little bits of tropical fruit sweetness have appeared, mostly pear but almost touching on passionfruit. Floral and with minerality in tact it possesses the depth of good aged Riesling whilst still providing some zesty citrus liveliness. If you look really hard you might find a bit of Kero, but nothing to distract from an excellent wine.

2006 WILLOW CREEK CISTERCIA CHARDONNAY (Mornington Peninsula 13.5% Diam)

One of the last wines made by Phil Kearney before Geraldine McFaul (previously from Stonier) took over as winemaker, this was quirky, enigmatic and superlative. Coconut, almonds, yellow peach, orange blossom and hazelnuts along with spicy toasted oak. The palate added nectarines and grapefruit with a wonderful almond and oatmeal texture. Really worked style of Chardonnay that was savoury, entrancing and full of joy & complexity. Where did Phil Kearney end up?

2006 LETHBRIDGE MIETTA PINOT NOIR (Geelong 13.5% Diam)

A bit closed off, perhaps a touch reductive but when this wine chooses to mumble a bit about itself what it says is impressive. Meaty notes with dark cherries and plums playing second fiddle to stalk, spice and stone. Some stringy rhubarb too. The tannin/structure is excellent. We both thought that when this wine is ready to go beyond a brief communiqué and talk openly it’s going to have some profoundly interesting things to say. At the moment it’s a touch taciturn and challenging.

2006 TEN MINUTES BY TRACTOR 10X PINOT NOIR (Mornington Peninsula 13.5% Screwcap)

Cherries plums and forest floor with cinnamon and a dash of white pepper. Nice use of oak. Tannins of the fine sand variety and quite grippy. A very good wine that perhaps suffered in comparison to those that came before it on the day. Lacking a little length.