There is a bit of a shit storm going on in the wine world over Randall Graham from the Bonny Doon Winery going where so many overseas wine writers have gone before. He carelessly and ignorantly slags off Australian Shiraz as over-ripe, over-confected syrupy rubbish in his latest book. At least one would hope it is ignorance, not calculated strategy…
Anyway, it’s all been said before. Australia is a large country that produces many different styles of Shiraz/Syrah. If you look at an atlas that should be enough to stop you from making Graham’s mistake. But I mention all this as I have a wine in front of me that is 14.5% ABV. And in no way is it over-ripe, confected or syrupy. Instead it is intense, focused and possesses a deal of finesse.
It has seen a fair clip of oak too. Matured in 50% new French for 24 months. And at the moment it needs a couple of days or a really good decant for that oak to integrate. But the fruit is of such quality that the level of oak poses no problem. The wine in question begins with cherries & raspberries then some toasty oak and spice comes along just afterwards. Graphite/pencil shavings are evident throughout, but it’s all in balance. Incredibly linear and lithe, the drive of this wine is compelling, even though it is only just above medium bodied. You’d never guess the ABV, it handles it effortlessly.
It does taste of Eden Valley, but I don’t think it is wine that is really captured by listing flavours. It is the fervency with which it expresses its purpose that captures my imagination. I’d lay this one down for a while. Its intentions should be even more clearly stated in about 5-10 years. I’ve no doubt the fruit will hold.
Winery Website- http://flaxmanwines.com.au/
Thankfully he is Randall Grahm, not Graham, as I wouldn't want my fine surname tarnished by the ill informed rantings of an American wanker
LOL! Sorry about that, I'll post an edit now to preserve you and your ancestors' reputation and diginity.
