Granite Belt 15% Diam $25- Tasted 20-21/9/09
I really, really wanted to like this wine. Peter Stark at Boireann makes terrific reds, the best on the Granite Belt. But in 2007, frost took out his fruit. It’s interesting to note that James Halliday penned an article on Boireann on the 23/2/2008 that spoke about Stark’s meticulously maintained little 1.5 Hectare Vineyard-
http://www.winecompanion.com.au/articles.cfm?id=45
He wrote of the frost and raised the notion that we may see how important this vineyard was to the quality of Boireann Wines now that Mr Stark was forced to rely on fruit from other sources.
Unfortunately for me, this wine indicated that what Stark did in his vineyard was of extreme importance to the final product. No doubt he is still an excellent wine maker, but I just couldn’t enjoy this wine that much. Now that was tough, because-
a) I have raved about Boireann
b) It has a high ABV and I wanted to say it was in balance just to stick it to Wolf Blass over his comments to a group of Barossan wine makers late last year. Blass told them NO table wine 15% or above should be awarded a medal. Now that is rubbish. But a lot of what Wolf Blass has been saying has been rubbish in my opinion. The reds bearing his name are almost always way worse then this one.
c) Max Allen penned an article on the importance of character in wine in the last Weekend Australian (19/9/09). I thought that article, whilst it did not deal with alcohol derived warmth or ABV as such, was spot on. This wine has plenty of character, so I tried to look at it that way. Couldn’t do it.
So I’ll purchase a 2008 Lurnea this week, fairly sure that I’ll have some very positive things to say about Boireann then. For now, to the wine at hand.
Dark dense purple in colour, after an hour in the decanter it possessed aromas of Violets, cherries, tar, kirsch and brandy with a touch of turned earth. Very expressive and open indeed. It slid onto the palate in a glycerol dominant manner, tracing a rather loose line of cherries, raspberries and blackberries before the barely perceptible tannins gave way to an unsatisfying brandied finish.
Over time, the tannins and structure did pick up, the oak kicked in and became somewhat enjoyable, adding lots of dark chocolate. Some spice appeared as well. The brandy turned mostly into kirsch, but the thrust of the wine was on entry and through the mid palate. The finish was still too dominated by alcohol derived warmth for my tastes, and pulled up short and unconvincing.
Today, it has morphed into kirsch and caramel/toffee and reminds me of a chocolate covered glacé cherry with a dusting of coffee. It seems almost Amarone in style. If you have a bottle of this I’d leave it for a very long time. It may come around. The bottle says till 2010. James Halliday (who, it seems, liked this and the 2007s more than me) reckons till 2014. I wouldn’t even touch it again till 2014- That’s just my call on it. Boireann wines are better than this tasting note suggests. I hope to be able to say kinder things about the next bottle I crack.
Winery Website- http://www.boireannwinery.com.au/
It's always hard when a producer who you admire throws up a dud. Even harder when you are tasting it with them at the time
Still, honesty is by far the best policy and good to see you have followed it here JP.
Thanks AG. It's not enjoyable in any way for me. As for tasting it with them whilst giving this sort of feedback, I hope I don't have to do that too soon!
I hear Boireann make a tannat? Have you tried this Jeremy? It's one of those varieties that just intrigues me, the 2004 from Pirramimma especially. Any opinions JP?
Hi Chris. I haven't tried a Boireann Tannat blend yet. I've heard Peter Stark thinks it's a very worthwhile variety, although it's been a while since I've had the chance to speak to him.
Of the 2008s, he has made a Mourvèdre Tannat, 55% & 45% respectively, and the fact that he has it priced at $45 would suggest to me he rates it. The only other 2008 that has that high a price tag is the Barbera, which has always sold very srtongly. He also considers the MT to be a mid to long term cellaring option, which, being familiar with Peter's drinking windows, means it's proabaly going to be a long term keeper.
The Brisbane Wine Emporioum had a tasting of the 2008s earlier this year and many said all the reds were excellent. I can't source the
2008 Mourvèdre Tannat retail, so I'll grab my personal favourite, the Lurnea (Merlot 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon 30%, Petit Verdot 15% and Cabernet Franc 15%. Matured in 1/3 new French oak) and give it a whirl this week.
His Shiraz Viognier brought him the most attention of any of his wines, but I don't think he even released one in 2008 and the straight Shiraz (which, like the 2007 that I have in my cellar, may contain a small element of Viognier) from the current vintage is made from non-estate fruit.
That could mean anything. Stark is a true eccentric & I suspect that's part of what makes his wines so good generally. He does what he wants to do. That's why he only makes reds and the only white grape in his little vineyard, which had to be seen to be believed, is Viognier. If it's still there, then it is soley for blending with Shiraz.
I've been meaning to get to the Granite Belt, but time and finances have tied my hands so to speak. Hopefully I'll pop in for a day or two this year and have some more info to share.
cheers
j
Jeremy I'm enjoying a bottle of the 08 Mouvedre Tannat tonight. Its pretty tannic, so could use a few years cellaring. I've been slowly working my way through the 08s (while trying to cellar some as well). It won't be long till the new releases are out – with their reputation they won't last long this year.
Good to hear Richard. The 09s have certainly been talked up, so I'm looking forward to trying them. I'm often a bit of a tannin freak so I quite like the way they are sturdily built into Stark's wines.
Hi Jeremy,
I've probably established the answer to the question, but did you give the Lurnea a whirl at all?
I couldn't find a write up here on WWEI?
Cheers
Stuart
Sorry Stu, it slipped through the net
I'll make sure I have a look at most of the 09s when they are released and write a few up.
Cheers
j
Hi Jeremy, some very interesting comments. I have had a few bottles of the Boireann Mourvedre 2007 over 2009/10 and really really liked them. I still have a few in the cellar, I’ll let you know how they go. I have just been to Boireann today and had a good yarn with Peter, I’m going to crack the Shiraz/Viognier 2011 tonight, really looking forward to it!
I also do think that Mr Blass’s comments are a joke about ABV, but some of his wines are stunning, the gold label 2009 Barossa Shiraz and the 2006 founders selection shiraz, come to mind.
all the best
Hi Wade – I’m glad to hear you’ve enjoyed the wine so far and I’d love to know how those other bottles are travelling. I’m sure if I tasted a bottle again now I’d probably have a different opinion. Wine is a moving target and even though we (wine writers) aren’t supposed to mention it too often…these notes and reviews are just snapshots (some better than others of course).
Wolfie was annoying me around the time I wrote this note, thus the comments. I doubt his style of wines are really for me but you’re right. When executed well, it’s a valid style.
Cheers for dropping by!
J
Hi J.
Thanks for the quick response. I’ve just opened and had a glass of the Boireann Shiraz Viognier 2011. Here are my notes, I’ve just had a wine moment that are rarer and rarer these days!
Great bright cherry red colour. Strong perfumed complex nose of spice (all spice etc I can’t really put my finger on the main one dammit!), herb garden, underlying violets and red cherries, flashes of blue fruits, and some classy oak (stunner nose!). Voluptuous palate, masses of fresh bouquet garnet (fresh not dried) type flavours mixed with cherry fruit and lots of spice. Lovely silky soft mouthfeel. Amazing grippy acid on an extremly long finish. OMG best shiraz I’ve had in a very long time and I’ve been drinking some good stuff lately!! 96+
Well as you can probably tell J I highly recommend the 2011 Boireann Shiraz/Viog, Get some it was released on Saturday. I’m getting another six tommorrow!
Heres a link to my other Boireann reviews on Cellartracker:
http://www.cellartracker.com/new/list.asp?Table=Notes&Producer=Boireann
All the best, I’ve got some more tasting to do…!
Sounds the goods. Complex too. Haven’t had a (new) Boireann for a while so I’ll try to track this down. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, it really helps fill out the site. Much appreciated!
Cheers
J
No probs. I just thought I’d add that I cracked this wine at around 4pm (they’re screw cap not diams anymore) and poured it around 6pm (I haven’t got a decanter in my motel room but do have a Schott Swizel glass I keep in my glovebox!).
Cheers!
Hi Wade & Jeremy
I’m wondering why the 2011 S/V has suddenly decelerated in price from what had become $55 in 2008 to $35 in 2011. I had been paying the members price, but I actually feel kinda like I bought a new honda last year for $40,000.00 and the new model has just been released and it’s $30,000.00 and have just been offered a trade-in of $15,000.00. Anyone know the reason for this huge price drop? I believe it is all estate fruit, so can’t see a reason?
Wade … that is a very early drinking of a Boireann S/V (the 2011 i.e.), what kind of drinking window do you give it?
Jeremy I tried a 2008 Lurnea in October last year and didn’t really like it. At the time I wrote this:
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A blend of Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot/Cabernet Franc. Very deep purple, aromas of spice and black fruits, palate of red and black fruits particularly cassis, spice, tannins are balanced but a little to drying for my tastes. Light to medium bodied. Not sure what it is but there’s something about this wine that doesn’t grab me – it may have something to do with the cool climate characteristics of the cab sav in this blend … just a hint of eucalyptus and that always spoils the wine experience for me, although others seem to appreciate it …. not sure that the eucalyptus will change overtime either. Rated as recommended with ***
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2008 was a very cool year in the GB, and many vineyards had probs ripening cabernet. I think that is the problem with the 2008 Lurnea, at least for me I really don’t enjoy eucalypt/mint flavours in cabernet … just a hint is OK but beyond that, spoils the wine for me.
BTW a few mistakes in your post, but probably because Stark changes his offerings so much, it can be hard to keep up.
He did make an S/V in 2008 and called it Maggie’s S/V after their dog who passed away that year. It retailed for $55. The Mouvedre Tannat in 2008 was around $27 and then suddenly (as you have observed) became $45 ??? The Barbera (La Cima Barbera) though has always been around the $20 mark. His Barbera fruit usually comes from Golden Grove.
I also did not enjoy the 2007 Cabernet. The 2008 non-estate shiraz (the one you mention) was all Harrington Glen fruit.
One of these years when I decide to try some of the 2008 Mouvedre/Tannat, I’ll come back and post, if we’re both still around.
Hi Peter,
I haven’t tried a Boireann in ages. I’d hope he’s changed his vineyard in the three odd years since this review was posted.
FWIW, I mentioned that “I don’t think he even released one in 2008″referring to his SV. I didn’t say I knew.
Interesting re the Barbera price tag. I was going off a retail shelf price at the time. Other than that I can’t spot any mistakes right now.
I haven’t tasted the Lurnea since I bought a bottle in 2008. It’s in the cellar, destined to remain there for quite some time I think.
I’m sorry I can’t help with any information on the current vintage or prices. As far as I know, he only sends sample to Halliday – although I could be wrong. I certainly see little to nothing regarding Granite Belt samples and must admit I’m out of the loop with Boireann.
Cheers
J
“I haven’t tried a Boireann in ages. I’d hope he’s changed his vineyard in the three odd years since this review was posted.”
Well he has sprinklers now, so frost shouldn’t be an issue … but still thunderstorms/hail etc. Also he grafted Sangiovese onto his Grenache and this vintage will be (actually now has been) his first release of sangiovese. But to tell the truth I have kinda gone off Boireann wines of late, although I have never tried any of his S/V’s … have a few but consider them to be too young for my palate.
I’ve mentioned this before Jeremy .. but grab yourself a bottle of Warren’s Pyramids Road Mourvedre 2010, very nice drop. I was talking with Warren recently and he said the 2011 (not released) is shaping up as even better.
cheers Jeremy : )
Hi Peter,
“Wade … that is a very early drinking of a Boireann S/V (the 2011 i.e.), what kind of drinking window do you give it?”
Yes I know VERY early drinking, I’ve got some Boireann S/V 2005, 06 and possibly 07 in the cellar (and lurneas, M/S/G and M’s and an 04 petit verdot, I’ll keep you posted on how those go), but I’d just been to the winery and decided to crack one that night (hence the posts), and was very suprised. This is a wine that is drinking perfectly now. Great, structure, elegant yet powerful, the grippy acid at the finish probably ensures around 5-8 years but I’m going to drink mine over the next 5. I have kept some other reds that I loved early only to be disappointed a few years later (as I’m sure all of us have!). I haven’t come across this sort of structure in Boireann before, reminds me of Clonakilla. And I’m going to talk to Peter next week about this (I’m going out there just after ANZAC day). Peter gives the S/V 2011 med to long term cellaring in the notes but I’ll discuss this as well.
I also thought the pricing was interesting to, and for this wine really good value.
Funny because I haven’t bought any Boireann since the 07 vintages (that was non estate fruit but still bloody good wines in my opinion) because my wife had our first child and I had to leave the Boireann club due to going onto one income. This is my first Boireann since then, and I’m back on board again, although the latest vintage is apparently a nightmare with waaaay too much rain, and lost most fruit!
I’d also forgotton how much of a lovely guy Peter is, and his wife Therese, it was great to catch up again.
All the best
wade
P.S another great Granite Belt winery are Bungawarra, the Paragon and Shiraz are great!
Thanks Peter and Wade for sharing your thoughts and filling out the picture. It’s great to see this sort of interaction on the site. In many ways, it’s what I hoped would happen when I first began WWEI. Much appreciated. And I will certainly keep an eye out for the wines mentioned.
Cheers
J
Apparently the large price decrease in the 2011 S/V is an indication of the vintage, fair enough … pity more winemakers don’t do this.
Hi Peter,
You’re right, I saw Peter at Boireann on last Friday to get some more of the Shir/Vio. Far too much rain, although the grapes did ripen though. I had a bottle of his Pinot Noir and a tasting of the Shira/Mour and picked up a familar herbal note in all of them (including the Shi/Vio). We discussed this and Peter reckoned a probable vintage factor rather than a terroir factor, I find this fresh herbal character very much to my liking! We both couldn’t put our finger on the exact herb or herbs funnily enough!
He also said the Shir/Vio in a good vintage will be up to $55 ish again, he also said he’d try another bottle of the Shi/vio because it had been a couple of months since he’s tried it…after me raving about it.
He’s getting rid of his Pinot Noir vines (regrafting not sure what with), the pinot was just not performing well.
An honest brilliant winemaker, like you say it’d be nice if others (more in the higher end) would adjust cost vs vintage but it’s a tough ol wine world out there!
All the best
wade
Peter was also saying that Halliday (I think) gave their 2010 Shir/Vio a 96.
Hi wade
There was no Boireann S/V in 2010, last one prior to 2011 was the 08 Maggies S/V. Perhaps you are thinking of the 2010 Granite Belt Shiraz made from Preston Peak and Harrington Glen grapes. These days I often find that I need to deduct points from Halliday ratings, personally I don’t believe it’s possible to allocate points to a wine, it’s really all in the description and combined with more of a range of categories e.g. OK, Good, Excellent, Outstanding …. or whatever, and then, beyond that you need to appreciate the palate of the person doing the rating … but in the end we are each our own wine expert … way it should be : )
Yep, just talked to Peter it was the 2010 shiraz with the Harrington and Pres grapes. Apparently the rating is not included but it’s in a Halliday brochure for twenty TOP REDS.
I don’t mind how wines are rated, as long as I can get some idea of the quality or what I’m getting for my cash. And of course I stick with wine writers with whom my palate agrees. For example I like Huon Hooke, Ralph Kyte Powell, Nick Stock, Halliday’s not too bad, but my palate doesn’t seem to agree with Max Allen…
I’m opening another Boir S/V 11 tonight, looking forward to it!
Hi Jeremy/Wade/Peter, I know this is a bit late on but its good to see some critical discussion, re – Boireann, so I thought i might add a comment in.
I agree with you Wade on the Boireann ’11 S/V, we have consumed about 10 bottles over the last year – agree it’s a very complex wine (& peppery) even though it is a lighter style due to the season but very drinkable right now, as I’m keeping my 08′s & 10′s for a bit longer yet!
Also if you get a chance, English wine writer Sarah Ahmed does a great article on the Granite Belt (plenty of reviews incl Boireann) on her Australia blog on thewinedetective.co.uk – worth checking out….
PS- just nabbed some of the newly released 2012 shiraz, not estate fruit (due to hail) but keen to try some….
Cheers
Hi Robert,
Thanks for the link, Sarah certainly has done some mighty notes and a thorough journey through the Granite Belt vineyards.
I’ve opened another Boireann Shiraz/Vig 2011 tonight, and my notes previously pretty much haven’t changed, which probably shows this has some more years than I first thought. Still extremely fresh with stunning spice and fresh herbs. I did open a 2011 Shi/Mourv a few months back and had a similar experience with lovely freshness and acidity, and that familiar ‘herbal’ note from this particular vintage.
Thanks again for the link, all the best.
Wade.
p.s how was the 2012 Boireann wines?
No problems Wade,
Yes I do believe the 2011′s from Boireann were a good reflection of that cool site & season, the coolness & herbal spice factors adding complexity, which can be more enjoyable for some like me (especially the strong pepper notes coming thru), but like you I do believe these 11′s will live longer than most realise with a distinct freshness, strong acids and some fine tannins lurking in the background…
The 2012′s grapes on the other hand are not from the Boireann vineyard, and IMO reflect the slightly warmer sites of their respective vineyard origin & the better growing season, but in saying that they do have wonderful primary fruit and that signature Boireann tannic grip indicating some cellar time is in order. I think the Barbera was the only estate grown wine made in 2012?
Cheers and all the best
Rob
Chris, very late reply 4 u but on the Tannat …. last year we had a blind tasting of mourvedres from around the country at Pyramids road and Peter and Therese Stark attended. Peter brought a Boireann 2005 Tannat along for us all to try after the blind tasting. That wine was a stunner, the fruit was still young and fresh, the wine glistened in the glass. Of course 2005 vintage was a good’un but the Tannat really impressed everyone.
Robert, I’m keen to try some Granite Belt 2012 reds. Based on barrel samples I tried last year and local wine maker expectations it may be the best vintage since 2000. If that is true, expect fuller bodied reds with classic granite belt liquorice. Thanks for the heads up on Sarah, I knew about the landline screening but missed it, so was able to watch the clip. She was in a hurry, missed a few good vineyards, but interesting comments from her especially because they are given in a much wider context that just Australia.
Apologies for the late reply…a little too much revelry on the weekend.
Thanks for the link to Sarah Ahmed. Much appreciated Robert. She’s a talented voice and I follow her whenever I can find the time.
Interesting to hear your thoughts on the 2005 Tannat and the 2012 Granite Belt vintage Peter. I’ll be interstate for most of the next two months but I must make a point of visiting again sometime this year. Will probably pop in to the New England region while I’m at it. Some excellent gear coming from just over the border as well.