Goulburn Valley 14% Screwcap CD $20- Tasted 7/9/09
I put this wine up against a 2007 Tahbilk Marsanne as the two Wineries are relatively close to each other, and both have a passion for Rhone whites. I was taken slightly off guard by the developed yellow golden colour of the Mitchelton, even though it had an extra year on it. I think it’s drinking pretty well right now for my tastes. Sometimes I think there is a bit of fashion driven bashing of more opulent white styles, as writers rush to embrace wines with excellent “minerality“, “acidity” and “finesse”. Now all of those can be good things. I love a good Leonay Riesling, even when it’s young. But I’m reticent to only allow myself to enjoy racy whites. I’ll take my full share of pleasure personally.
Complex aromatics in this little number. Peaches, syrup, thyme, lemon, aniseed, honey, beeswax and washing powder (and I mean that last descriptor to be taken in a good way. It works and it adds interest). It is waxy and slightly toasty, with a soft and generous mouth coating texture. The honey and beeswax are intense, but the notes of citrus like acidity keep it from just collapsing on your tongue. Its extravagant, yes. But it still has definition and shape.
The complexity is further aided by some almonds, nectarines and marzipan. There is the smallest amount of alcohol warmth on an otherwise satisfying finish, nothing to bother me much. Some people are going to like this sort of wine more than others. As I said, it is intense and mouth coating. But I enjoyed drinking it a great deal myself. And I’m glad it didn’t taste just like a Tahbilk. I’ve always said that I think much of what’s to love about wine is encompassed in diversity.
Winery Website- http://www.mitchelton.com.au/Mitchelton.aspx