Clare, Watervale SA 12.5% Screwcap RRP $25- Tasted 19/8/09
We are very spoilt for choice when it comes to Riesling in Australia. We can choose from many different regions, many different styles and all at great price points. Part of me hopes the Australian public will continue to neglect Riesling and Semillon as I love them and they are currently a bargain! But I’d also like to see the consumer explore these grapes further, there is something available to suit most tastes. Get in while the prices are good.
This offering from Atlas wines comes from the famed Watervale district. And here’s a bit of fun for you, if you haven’t already done it. Open a Watervale and Polish Hill from the same producer and try them side by side. I’m certainly not gonna tell you what you will taste, but I’d put money on the fact that you’ll taste a difference. That difference is “concentrated terroir” in action. Geographically, these two areas are relatively very close. On the nose and palate they are worlds apart.
Many have spoken of 2009 being a potentially bad vintage for Riesling in these areas. But this generalisation has the capacity to be unfair & put the consumer off. The problem is that it depends on where you were and what you did. Some will navigate the conditions better than others. It depends on factors such as topography, variance in soils, vineyard management etc. So Watervale is Watervale, but so much more as well. There is a Jim Barry Riesling from 2009 that is getting some good reviews and I’m looking forward to trying it.
Now to this hand-picked version from 60 year old vines and vinified by Atlas wines. I am of the opinion that hand picking does matter. Especially in vintages that pose more potential problems than others. It’s going to reduce MOG (matter other than grape), and the quality of grapes picked should be better with the use of human hands as opposed to machine harvesting. More care will generally result in better wine.
It’s got the floral and expressive nose that I usually associate with Watervale in general. The citrus is there also, along with a little orange & tropical action. And if others get that, they may really enjoy it. As I said, the diversity of well priced Riesling is Australia is great for the consumer. On the palate this feels somewhat minerally and I’m tempted to use the river pebble descriptor. Well, I just did. For me personally, after opening strongly, this bottle just pulled up a touch short on the finish. It’s still a more than pleasant Riesling, so don’t let the fact that I personally didn’t think of it as a 90+ wine put you off from trying it. I’m an acid freak, so I generally enjoy Leo Buring Eden Valleys (I can happily drink the Leonay’s young with food) and Polish Hill Rieslings more. That’s me. Try some different ones and decide what you like. That’s what it’s all about.
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