2005 Carlei "Signature Series" Tre Amici

Victoria, Yarra Valley, Lake Marmel 15.0% Diam Bd $40- Tasted 13-14/7/09

It’s an Australian super-tuscan, it’s a multi regional blend, it’s biodynamic, it’s made by Serge Carlei (one of my fav winemakers, and he replies to emails. Hip hip to that say I!), and I’m excited!!!

Sangiovese 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Merlot 10%, Awesomeness 100%

So this little baby is one of just a few Bd wines that almost make me think someone could pick a Bd blind (not really, but it does make me think). Looking forward to the results of Luke Johnston’s PhD- explores Bd with the help of Melissa Brown of Gemtree and Julian Castagna of Castagna (who’d thunk?)- 3 vineyards, 8 rows adjacent, treated using low input conventional, high input conventional, organic and biodynamic approaches. Methodology looks sound, check most recent Australian Viticulture Magazine or it may be on the net if your interested. It won’t “prove” anything but it seems to me to be the next step in understanding Bd possibilities after Paxton got the ball rolling.

And now to this super (did I mention I liked it?) wine. It’s lively like with a bit of juice, but that ain’t it’s thing. This one is complex and stuctured more by great tannins. Very balanced and no hint of it’s 15%…until the next morning when you reach for the water and paracetemol.

There are the things I like in a Sangiovese/sangi dominant blend. The Sangiovese comes from Lake Marmel, just a bit NW of Bendigo. Cherries, cherry pips, almonds and almond skins, dried orange rind and something akin to a gravel road on the nose and in the texture. Then there is more, and we all want more. Our palates are jaded, we’ve had it too good. And more doesn’t have to mean bigger. It’s not the size that matters, it’s how you use it. And Mr Carlei has used his blending of regions, varietals and oak treatments with great intelligence and thought.

The Cabernet and Merlot are from the Yarra. The Cab is perhaps reponsible for the blackberry/currant verging on cassis notes that stretch their legs whilst the Sangiovese was playing. The merlot may be adding to a plush mid-palate.

The sangiovese sees time in a large seasoned Foudre whilst the cabernet and merlot are aged in French barriques (so I got a bit of French into me on Bastille day).

The tannins give it a tight finish which is extemely long. The almond skin/gravel road texture is compelling. The second day saw things become a bit less primary, with the coal and tar coming clearly into the picture, and the dried orange rind becoming more prominent. And, I could guess related to the ripeness, a lovely smidge of caramel. Caramelicious!

Love what Serge Carlei is doing here with his “Signature Series” and over at the Turner’s Crossing range as well.

95 (and that may be unkind)

Winery website- http://www.carlei.com.au/index.asp