The only other Australian Pinot Meunier based table wine I’ve sampled has come from Nat White at Main Ridge Estate. Apparently his vines come from Best’s cuttings. Given Best’s success with the variety I am slightly surprised that more producers haven’t explored its potential.
Two versions exist, a young vine and this Old Vine expression which is only made in vintages which are deemed to have produced good enough fruit – 2004, 2005, 2008 and 2011 of late. It’s a single block wine sourced from plantings dating back to 1867 and this release contains 15% Pinot Noir. Expressive aromatically with a bouquet of red cherries, sap, black and brown spice, restrained florals and a hint of chocolate. Medium-bodied at most and fleet of foot with a line of fine, hustling acidity and some delightfully dusty tannin. A delicate wine and although the structural edifice may not seem overly profound history tells us that it has every chance of evolving into something even more special. Incidentally it was served alongside the 1988 vintage which retained primary fruit and vivid purple flowers despite having developed captivating tertiary characters and sublime textural presence. 93+
Tasted: February 2014