2012 Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Shiraz

torzi frost dodger 2This is the tenth release of the appassimento styled Frost Dodger Shiraz. The concentration produced by dry racking the grapes and concentrating the sugars results in such density and power that I’ve never thought of it as a table wine. I prefer sipping it slowly with some Parmigiano-Reggiano. It’s a good way to ponder its contradictions, never before as brilliantly illuminated as here in the 2012 expression.

In terms of flavours one could rattle off endless descriptors; blueberries, pepper, drinking chocolate, bitter nut skins, plums and cinnamon. I’m sure there are at least half a dozen more distinguishable elements. But what fascinates me here is the physique given to this lavish cradle of luxury. Ferrugninous tannin flexes its muscle throughout the whole experience, roping each distinct note of richness back into a tightly bundled whole before it can fully escape. An act of recuperation that is nothing short of astounding given the force needing to be harnessed. As this plays out it brings further animation to the wine, creating an extant liquid that enthralls in its youth while promising all sorts of possibilities for the future. Ultimately it’s a unique wine which defies categorisation. And for that as much as anything it should be celebrated. 94+

Region: Eden Valley
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $35
Tasted: August 2013


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5 Responses to 2012 Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Shiraz

  1. Have you got the 1903 Shiraz? Keen to hear how you think it compares to the Dodger…

  2. Thanks Rich. Have been tasting the 1903 Shiraz over the last two days as well. It’s been an interesting experience as the two wines are poles apart. It’s good though. Not quite as good as the 1903 Grenache Mataro in my opinion but very, very good. Will post a review tomorrow.

  3. Colin r says:

    Hello Jeremy,
    Not sure this is quite a winner to me ……….every facet trying to announce “LOOK AT ME”! the sweetish syrupy factor is a little overdone, you are correct it certainly is not a table wine. I wouldn’t describe it as unbalanced though.The blueberry delightfully hanging around for some time, no surprise there I suppose as it is such a punchy wine.
    Judging from the multitude of descriptors you have used for this wine you have a similar view. I have to say I am puzzled by what this wine is trying to say. The 1903 Shiraz is far more enjoyable to me.



  4. I suspect it’s a stylistic issue Colin. I am in the same camp as you and find the 1903 range (particularly the Grenache Mataro) more enjoyable, at least as table wines. But the quality on display here really is quite something in my opinion. Appassimento wines certainly aren’t for everyone but I believe them to be valid expressions nonetheless. I’m just happy that we have the diversity and the choice.

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