This is the tenth release of the appassimento styled Frost Dodger Shiraz. The concentration produced by dry racking the grapes and concentrating the sugars results in such density and power that I’ve never thought of it as a table wine. I prefer sipping it slowly with some Parmigiano-Reggiano. It’s a good way to ponder its contradictions, never before as brilliantly illuminated as here in the 2012 expression.
In terms of flavours one could rattle off endless descriptors; blueberries, pepper, drinking chocolate, bitter nut skins, plums and cinnamon. I’m sure there are at least half a dozen more distinguishable elements. But what fascinates me here is the physique given to this lavish cradle of luxury. Ferrugninous tannin flexes its muscle throughout the whole experience, roping each distinct note of richness back into a tightly bundled whole before it can fully escape. An act of recuperation that is nothing short of astounding given the force needing to be harnessed. As this plays out it brings further animation to the wine, creating an extant liquid that enthralls in its youth while promising all sorts of possibilities for the future. Ultimately it’s a unique wine which defies categorisation. And for that as much as anything it should be celebrated. 94+
Region: Eden Valley
Tasted: August 2013