In many ways this is the polar opposite of the 2012 Frost Dodger reviewed earlier. Domenic Torzi doesn’t seem to use anything that could be referred to as a formula across his work under the Torzi Matthews, Longhop and Old Plains labels. It’s refreshing. As is this wine. It’s very much in the vein of the 1903 Old Vines Grenache Mataro with the focus on clarity and precise delivery. It incorporates 40% whole bunches and oak takes a back seat. All about unadorned expression of site and that takes skilful winemaking.
The vitality of blackberry and mulberry fruits is met by the complexity of spiced orange peel, amaretto, grilled meat, spice and tilled soil. It’s not a creamy or fleshy wine although it puts on some body with time. The acidity carries it safely on its way toward intensely satisfying nutty tannin. This is Barossa Shiraz as I like to see it. My score may be stingy but the wine certainly isn’t. Showed no signs of fading over three days of tasting. No rush to drink it I shouldn’t think. 93
Region: Barossa Valley
Alcohol: 14.2%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $35
Tasted: August 2013
I just served this and the Frost Dodger blind to our sales team. Asked them to choose which one they prefer, which wine we should offer to our customers.
Majority said the FD was more serious, the 1903 a softer, nicer drink now. More preferred the 1903, if to only choose one.
After discussion, we decided we would offer both wines together. Different wines, both solid – take a couple of bottles of each..
Interesting. I’d buy and drink more of the 1903 but I’d like to have a little of the 2012 Frost Dodger in my cellar. But I see the 1903 as more of a table wine and I consume those sort of wines more often. It’s certainly able to be enjoyed now but I wouldn’t be classifying it solely as a short term wine. It stood up really well over three days and showed some interesting signs of development – certainly became more earthen. It’s all guess work but, depending on your tastes and what you’re looking for, I reckon it might be worth laying some down.