Sourced from the oldest vineyard in Beechworth, which makes it significant in and of itself. It’s the second wine that Adrian Rodda has made from this fruit, the first marking the beginnings of the A.Rodda label. He’s bringing a level of restraint to the region’s Chardonnay that I’ve never witnessed before. Some will love that, others will feel lost. It’s still clearly Beechworth fruit though. Some of the descriptors I’ll use might suggest a bigger wine. They’re regional flavour profiles. But ultimately this is about elegance.
It smells and tastes of red apples, peach cobbler, honeycomb, smoke and citrus. All these elements are rather subtle. A toned body, fine acidity and excellent extension lift it above the pack. The mouthfeel is salubrious, not overbearing. Flavour and form in carriage. 94
Tasted: August 2013