The lightest and most feminine of the 2012 Giant Steps Pinot Noirs. It has a bone china quality. Immaculate line and length, poise, composure and elegance. You’re almost frightened of breaking it when you swallow.
Captivating light cherry and floral fragrances. A silk ribbon flow. Stony mineral presence and crushed black spice. There’s a grapefruit accent to the acidity which reminds me very much of the Mayer Granite Pinot Noir 2012. Not a wine that is easily captured by phenomenological descriptors. In a word, ineffable. 94
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $45
Tasted: July 2013
Your note is pretty close to mine. Fragile stuff, but enough weight and depth there. I rated it a little lower, as is my wont, but we’re clearly talking the same wine. Somewhere between Gembrook Village 2010 and Mayer Granite 2012 for me! Where do you think it’ll go in the future? I’m unsure. From your notes, I think the Apple Jack (my favourite from 2010) might be the one I’ll prefer. I’ll try shortly.
I must confess that I wasn’t quite as taken with the 2012 Chardonnays as you were. I tasted them all over 2 days, and 3 for the Sexton – which I ended up not liking very much. I think the Tarraford is the pick for cellaring, though it doesn’t quite reach my current ‘standard’ (I have to be choosy these days – don’t need too much more in the cellar), and the Arthurs Creek for drinking now. I thought the Tarraford pretty ordinary indeed, and even a bit dilute, on Day 1, but it showed its class on Day 2. I think we might have slightly different Chardonnay needs – or indeed Yarra Valley needs.
MC
I think your idea of this occupying a space somewhere between the Gembrook 2010 and the Mayer Granite 2012 is pretty accurate MC.
I suspect it will fill out a little with age yet still remain a very delicate wine. My mind wanders to the 2006 Gembrook Pinot Noir that I had at lunch as part of the Yarra Valley Wine Program last month. Not a wine of power…and concepts such as depth don’t seem that relevant either. It seemed to straddle a line between pristine primary fruit and more earthen, savoury bottle aged sentiments. I reckon this Giant Steps Pinot may go a similar way with subtle aromatic and textural complexities the key to its evolution. I don’t see that lightness of being ever really being lost. There’s obviously a lot of crystal ball gazing going on here. I’ve laid some down to find out what does happen in seven to ten years time.
On the Chardonnays I agree that the Arthurs Creek has a drink now appeal that is less evident in the other two. I can understand where you’re going with the comments on the Tarraford but I never found it dilute. I see a quiet intensity that will carry the wine into maturity.
The aged bottles I’ve drunk have always impressed me…but as you mention, I believe what we’re looking for from the Yarra Valley is significantly different. Which isn’t to say there aren’t areas of overlap (the 2012 Mayer Pinots for instance).
I reckon that’s all part of the fun actually. My colleague Julian Coldrey has tastes which diverge markedly from mine. For the most part that adds to the pleasure of tasting together when we have the opportunity. Eventually we always find a couple of bottles that we can both enjoy and the dialogue is always stimulating. I’m of the belief that we place too much emphasis on consensus in wine when it is discourse that is more commensurate with the liquid which obsesses us.
Maybe we’ll one day have the opportunity to sit down together with a few bottles Michael and engage in some friendly debate as to their relative merits or lack thereof
Cheers
J
I agree with all that. I certainly don’t think we should be working towards consensus when it’s a question taste. We don’t need total conformity. And, yes, it might indeed be good to share some thoughts over some bottles one day!!
MC
I really hope we get the chance to do that one day!
Cheers
J
Michael – you should join us on Tuesday 17 September at Era Bistro from 6pm for Swirl Sniff Spit. We’ll be tasting mini verticals of Bird on a Wire Marsanne, Chardonnay and Syrah with Caroline Mooneyand kicking off with YV G & Ts. I’m sure we can also supply some suitable opponents for a bit of friendly debate.
Yes, I should (in italics for emphasis). I certainly wish I could get up to Brisbane more often for such things. But I’m at the Gold Coast. I occasionally get along to Bundy and Coke or even XXXX Gold tastings on the footpath close to the Cavill Mall, before the police arrest me for comporting myself in an indecorous manner in public. It’s not widely known that you can sometimes do a vertical tasting if you get cans with different “best before” dates.
I’m sure Jeremy will love a mini-vertical of Marsanne :). Enjoy.
MC
Caroline is one of the most exciting winemakers in the Yarra Valley at the moment in my opinion. Due to bottling mishaps I missed catching up with her in the Yarra last month. A good reminder that I need to pin her down to ask some questions for an article while she is in Brisbane.
I don’t usually drink a Pinot Noir. However, was pleasantly surprised with its smoothness and silky taste.
Tony – when I began to take an interest in wine I seldom drank Pinot either. Part of that was due to the price bracket I was drinking in (decent varietal, inexpensive Pinot used to be difficult to find) and another factor was what the generous appeal of toasty, buttery Chardonnay or chocolatey, smooth Shiraz.
Now I don’t think there’s anything wrong with those sort of wines; in fact I still drink them on occasions. I also get annoyed at those who suggest that wine drinkers undergo some sort of universal positive evolutionary development which draws them towards the silkiness, finesse and lighter nature of Pinot Noir. That’s a grand narrative and an elitist one at that. It’s also an extremely boring cliché – although many in the wine world fail to recognise it as such.
Still, despite those caveats it’s exciting for me to see people increasingly try and embrace Pinots like this…or alternative varieties and blends. It’s possible that like you they may find they enjoy them. And that opens up another avenue of pleasure. For me, wine should first and foremost be about pleasure. All the the other criteria we arbitrarily impose on it should be secondary.
Cheers
J
I emphatically agree with the above Jeremy. This “all roads lead to Pinot” business can be one person’s journey, but it will and should not describe the path for all of us. It is indeed an elitist narrative propagated by those who took that path, either out of personal preference or in deference to privileging the narrative itself.
MC
Yes. It’s rubbish. All roads lead to Nebbiolo.
The truly refined and mature palate seeks out Sparkling Chambourcin.
I think I need to get back up to the Cellar Door (again) and try all of these 2012 Chard’s & Pinot’s.
The 2012 Applejack Pinot might be all gone by now but it would still be worthwhile. Not just for the Giant Steps single vineyard wines either. The 2012 Innocent Bystander Chardonnay, Pinot and Shiraz are all classy wines and great value too.