So many differences between these Kooyong single vineyard Pinots yet there’s a common theme of layered decadence, structure and complexity. All of them are ageworthy and it’s a shame more people won’t be able to tease them apart side by side over time. The subtleties of terroir are always best revealed in a comparative sense.
The Meres is clear and away my favourite of the trio. Anise, smoke, meatiness and broken twigs are initially to the fore but over time black cherry, strawberry and an intriguing yet undeniable note of gooseberry begins to rise up. Plenty of five-spice on the silky palate with slightly tart acidity and sappy tannin shaping the flavours in a captivating manner. 95 Excellent – Exceptional
Region: Mornington Peninsula
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $75
Tasted: February 2013