By Jingo winemaker John Gilbert certainly packs personality into these wines. This is overwhelmingly vinous and full of intrigue. Montepulciano is the grape in question; its spiritual home is in the Abruzzo region of east-central Italy.
It smells of saddle leather, coffee beans, licorice, clay, bitter cocoa and (considering the vintage) surprisingly fresh black brambly fruits. There’s a bit of animale about it too. The fruit is there but it’s just part of a far more complex story. Thick, chewy tannin fits right into this setting. Evolved and mutated over three days of tasting but was never less than totally compelling. 93 Very Good
Region: Adelaide Hills
Alcohol: 14.2%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $55
Tasted: November 2012