The first time I tasted a Medhurst wine, at the Yarra Valley Wine Program last year, I wasn’t taken with it – an 08 Shiraz whose ripeness and lack of finesse obfuscated its region and terroir. Since then Medhurst have hired Matt Steel as chief winemaker and look to be heading in a very positive direction. Matt was generous enough to fire off bottles of the 2010 and 2011 Chardonnay and Pinot so that I could get a better idea of where the winery was heading. As he continues to understand his site more deeply the wines should only improve. Which is not to say these last two releases aren’t impressive.
The Estate vineyard runs East to West. According to Matt, this results in variable flavours through different blocks. And there is a mélange of subtle flavours evident in this 2011 Chardonnay; nectarine, green apple, melon and grapefruit kissed by nougat oak. 70% went through malolactic fermentation to temper the high malic acid generated by the cool, wet vintage – it’s a technique that seems to have a real place within the context of 2011 Yarra Valley Chardonnays, contributing textural nuance without tipping over into buttery blurry-ness. Some solids funk develops with air alongside attractive hints of smoke. Wood spice on a finish which is otherwise marked by tangy pink grapefruit and cleansing minerality. This is not ultra-lean or flavourless and it should please many palates for that reason. It’s a step up from the 2010 release (more refined, although vintage conditions have probably played a part in that), and one that leaves me eager to see what lies ahead for Medhurst. Very Good
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 12.7%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $30
Tasted: June 2012