David Lowe’s whites have failed to interest me. Too lean and mean for my tastes. This is the first of his reds that I’ve seen and I’m actually quite taken with it. There’s a degree of intent behind it as well; “We are aiming for fruit purity without a lot of heavy oak.” And that’s very much how the wine presents.
It’s certainly not a wine for the structuralists out there. It splays itself quite languidly upon the palate, taking its leisure. There’s no great detail or shape but its relaxed state makes it all the more drinkable. Potent but lively black and blue fruits with pepper spice and nuances of meat jus and red earth. Natural grape tannins tug gently on the finish. There are plenty of reasons to rate this lower than I have but I sometimes wonder if sheer drinking pleasure shouldn’t be as important to how a wine ‘scores’ as line, length and definition. Very Good
Tasted: July 2012