David Bowley’s Vinteloper label is rapidly establishing itself as a one to keep a close eye on. His Rieslings, particularly the quirky, complex and delicious ODEON, have led the way but this curious blend of Touriga, Shiraz and Pinot is right up there as well. The name is derived from a Latin root meaning obscure, secret or unknown.
Initially it’s awash with brambly black and red fruits with some wild strawberry popping its head up from time to time. Black spice with mild suggestions of smoked meats, violets and undergrowth. With time these details merge into a savoury palate spiked with pepper and subtley framed by slightly tarry, toasty oak. It’s light to medium bodied with cleansing, squeaky acidity, fine smudgy tannin and good length. I don’t think I’ve encountered anything quite like it before. It’s intriguing, balanced and thoroughly enjoyable. Very Good
Tasted: June 2012