It puzzles me that Kym Teusner has been so derisive of Barossa Shiraz in the past, referring to it in a 2011 article by Tony Love as “an instant-gratification wine…a big mouthful of sweet stuff and it’s as boring as hell.” Especially given the delights of the eight year old wine sitting in front of me. Maybe there’s a splash of Mataro in here or maybe Kym was guilty of a bit of sophistry…or maybe it was all in jest and that was lost in the context of the article.
This isn’t syrupy and the sweetness is restrained, presenting itself in the form of vital raspberries, blackberries and plums which are pleasing to see alongside the bottle age derived characters of mushroom and red dirt, leather and a hint of horse stables (just a hint). Gum leaf, brazil nuts and pepper chime in making this anything but a boring wine. The acid is hanging in there although the tannin is well on the way to being resolved. Length and flow are bang on. It’s in its drinking window but I’ll be keen to see how it looks in another five or so years – I suspect it’s got that amount of time left in it.
I love the direction some of the younger Barossa brigade are taking with Grenache, Mataro and blends but there’s still value and interest in well made Barossa Shiraz. Just look at this or the wines of Alex Head. Excellent
Tasted: June 2012