Gary Mills makes intriguing wine. The sort of booze that challenges perceptions and broadens horizons. He’s extremely interested in single site expression but appears to come at it in an unapologetically interpretive manner. I’m not precisely sure what he first saw in the Westgate Vineyard’s Riesling grapes that prompted him to ferment the whole bunch pressings in large format, old French oak and then leave sur lie for eight months but it works. Just don’t expect a traditional rendition of the variety.
Musty and musky with aromas of wild lime, polished bronze and gingerbread. It slides around the mouth in a slippery nipple kind of way. Very savoury with the finish pleasantly roughed up by the oak. Minerality abounds, more as flavour than shape. I never managed to put any of the last release away but I’m going to cellar some of this. Honestly, I have no idea how it will develop in the years to come. Very Good
Tasted: October 2011