2008 Madeleines Nangkita Viognier

Southern Fleurieu 13.0% Screwcap $19.90 Source: Sample

I love it when I come across a stonkingly good Viognier. Chris Dix and Peter Belej have produced the goods here. It comes as less of a surprise when you consider that Belej was one of the pioneers of the variety, planting & producing for Yalumba in the early ’90s…but I was unaware of that when I tasted this.

It doesn’t mimic the Yalumba style either I might add. It’s a touch more restrained but totally varietal; in short it is its own wine. Wild ferment, lees and old oak all play their part to perfection. Extremely fresh apricots, apples and tangerine with varietal ginger and a little citrus.

Good Viognier, such as this, has an exquisite sense of otherness to it. That elusive and foreign quality seems a result of the combination of honeysuckle, ginger, cloves and cumin along with a textural nuance that avoids oiliness but embraces a maternal softness. That gentle, nurturing texture lingers in the mouth as long as the flavours themselves. Please don’t serve this one too cold or you’ll obfuscate the alluring strangeness that it has to offer. One of the best Viogniers I have encountered, and at a price that belies its quality and charm.

Winery website- http://www.vincognita.com.au/

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