Chianti and Maremma, Italy 13.5% Screwcap $30 Source- Retail
Justin Bubb was assistant winemaker at Gabbiano from 2004 until 2008, and it was those wines which first got me interested in his work. Whilst he still has some involvement there he’s now got his own little project; Babo Wines. Interesting bloke too. I recently had a dicussion with him involving the importance of clonal selection when it comes to Sangiovese, how under-valued Sicilian cuisine was in comparison to other areas of Italy, and the unique history behind that region’s food. Anyhoo, I’d suggest having look at both this wine & the 2007 Rosso L’Isolano Sicilia I.G.T. I haven’t tried his whites but I like his philospohy on Pinot Grigio:
“Pinot grigio is all about freshness and food and calling for a second bottle. Producers need to recognise the variety’s limitations and make wines that are leaner, simpler and fresher.”
Hear, hear. Anyway, onto this wine. It’s wonderfully savoury and thankfully not dominated by oak. And it shows that a “clean” wine can still possess rustic qualities. Slightly sweeter (but not “sweet”) dark cherries than you’d find in many Sangioveses from Chianti. Indeed, I do think it has some “new world” characters about it without tasting like an Australian Sangiovese. Aniseed, spice and a faint whisper of chocolate. Tannins are chewy enough & there’s a lovely bit of gravel/bitumen on the back palate. Good length and drive too. The value is very good and so is the wine.
Winery website- http://www.babowines.com/
I read Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa's 'The Leopard many years ago and as well as remaining one of my favourite novels, it sparked an interest in all things Sacillian. Babo's Rosso L'Isolano Sacilia was something I had to try. A deliciously deep wine, it made me crave something rich and gamey.
Dave
Ah, "The Leopard". A brilliant exploration of the passing of things and how to deal with/mourn them. I read it back in my University days but sadly have never had a chance to revisit it since then. Must rectify that. The book is still on my shelves but I'll need another bottle of the Rosso L'Isolano now
Tried this wine not so long ago, agree that the clonal selection is essential to Sangiovese and it doesn't matter if it's old world or new world. Babo needed some time open in the glass or decanted, definately food partnered……
Certainly agree on it needing time Shane. Better on day two for mine.
Some still tell me that clonal selection isn't a big deal with Sangi but, even though I'm not a winemaker, I'm finding it hard to accept that.
And I have to say it's great that we can say a wine is "suited to food" without sounding like we don't like it these days.
Cheers
jeremy