McLaren, Clarendon 14.5% Screwcap $25- Tasted 2-3/8/09
Pronounced il bree-caw-neh, or so the winery’s website will tell you if you click on the wine’s name above (the wine heading on this blog will always take you to the winery website if it is availbale). So, I’ve been pronouncing it wrong. Another day blogging, another day learning.
This one was a bit unconvincing when I opened it, not at all like the Joseph Moda in style, little oak and totally medium bodied (almost seemed thin, but it wasn’t). A reasonably light ruby red for this region, its translucence mirrored its weight, but it was very beautiful in its clarity. Juicy mouthfeel indicative of the wine being mostly structured by acidity.
Initially, sweetish cherry, light charry oak, raspberries with spice and a hint of tar. As it opened up it gained some flesh on its bones, whilst still being quite crunchy for a red. Very fine chalky tannins also played a stuctural role, reminiscent of cherry pips in taste and texture. With more time, floral/violets characters appeared with fruit flavours tending towards blacberry and dark cherry. And some dark chocolate was becoming very apparent, adding extra tastiness & complexity. I suspect the chocolate came from pips rather than the use of old oak.
It’s quite a fruit driven wine, but in the best possible way. On the second day, things were more to my taste. Better depth and complexity. More savoury and full black cherry, melted dark chocolate and some nice sangi almond skin. The acid had settled very nicely, and integration had made for a more enjoyable wine. This was even a hit of strong coffee. The black pepper was there but had diminished or sunk in and a hint of cola balanced the tar black qualities.
The wine is very good, but it needs time. Or a very good decant. Another interesting expression of this blend and one which adds more weight to a remark made by Campbell Mattinson: If Australia can grow enough quality Sangiovese, its addition to shiraz can make for a more complex and expressive wine whilst still retaining the varietal nature of Shiraz. It’s a blend to look out for, certainly. Pizzini and Coriole, to name two others, make very good versions as well. And the blend is generally a little cheaper than a straight Sangiovese.
92+
Winery website- click on title